Ben's Almost Salt-free Multi-grain Bread

Big Ben K asked me to make bread for him as he's on a salt-free diet and everything commercial he buys either gags him with salt, or is flavorless in the extreme. He eventually wants to learn to make his own bread so I'm working out a recipe he can do at home. This is a variation of what has become my go-to recipe for everyday bread.

All the flours were purchased from Breadtopia.com, except the bread flour which is a store brand, Weis, I think. I use a digital scale to measure 500 grams of flour for a poolish and 500 grams for the dough. Ben doesn't have easy access to a scale so I measured these by volume and weight. Two 1/3 cups of each of the following flours went into the poolish bowl; Bolted Organic Heritage Stone Milled Turkey Red, Bolted Stone Ground Organic Spelt, Bolted Organic Kamut and Bolted Bread Flour which just happened to total 525 grams.

I added 600 grams of room temp water and 1/2 teaspoon of SAF Red Instant Yeast from kingarthurflour.com, mixed it with a dough whip and let it set for about two hours until it began to bubble, then it went in the fridge over-night.

The poolish sat for two hours coming back to room temp before I added a half teaspoon of kosher salt, two teaspoons of yeast, a tablespoon of diastatic malt powder, 100 grams of warm water and one tablespoon of EVOO. A quick mix with the dough whip and I added 500 grams of bread flour and worked it into a dough by hand. I gave the dough a 30 minute rest before dividing it in half. Each half went into the KitchenAid mixer for 7 minutes before being recombined and let rise for an hour before I folded it once and let it rise another hour. (The rise was beyond my expectations! I'm guessing the mixer developed the gluten much more so than my usual feeble hand kneading?)

My shaping is still on the lame side, but a 45 minute final rise while the oven stone reached 525F, a few quick slashes with a Lame (as lame as my shaping skills) and into the oven the loaves went with a cup of cold water pitched into a pan on a lower rack for steam.

Ten minutes later a second cup of cold water went in and the temp was reduced to 475F for another ten minutes. The loaves swapped places on the stone and baked another ten minutes before I removed them to the cooling rack, where they promptly began crackling and hissing like I've NEVER had bread do before!

My, how things suddenly come together

Okay, so it's been 4 months since I posted anything here. In that time I've gone from making edible bread to making as close to perfect bread as I hoped (and have always doubted) I ever would. In the process, I got away from Peter Reinhart's book "The Bread Baker's Apprentice", though I found others by him that have moved me along to where I am now. Having achieved some success with Reinhart's techniques gave me confidence to tackle Ken Forkish's methods of long ferments with minimal amounts of yeast. I'd have never thought to leave a dough rise for 12 hours at room temperature!

Forkish requires a dutch oven for most of his breads. I'm not interested in following him that closely. I've adapted his poolish pizza dough recipe to my wants and desires, and to my delight, I've turned out some pretty good loaves. And pizzas, though I like the beer bread doughs better when it comes to making pizza. (Tröegs' "Dream Weaver" wheat beer is excellent in a pizza dough!) As I experiment with time and temperature I may change my mind about using beer for other than sipping in a hot kitchen.

The two loaves pictured here are the results of having strayed from the prime recipe. My kitchen gets hot in the summer and AC isn't much of an option right now. The poolish for these loaves started out with cold tap water, fermented about 4 hours in an 80 degree F kitchen before going into the fridge for a couple of days. When I started the dough I used warm water to turn the poolish into a batter before adding flour and salt. The resulting dough was still cold and took hours to come to room temperature of about 75 F. As the dough warmed up I stretched and folded it several times before leaving it be for several more hours.

I had planned to put the dough back into the fridge for at least another night, but the last stretching left some dough clinging to my fingers. I ate it of course. Kinda like a salty, slightly sour, nutty chewing gum. I decided I'd give the dough a few more hours on the counter and bake it before bedtime. (It's cooling as I type at 10:15pm.)

Shaping was minimal. I dusted the counter with flour and up dumped (up dumped is a hillism DW's family uses) the dough bucket. Using a scrapper I cut the dough roughly in half and folded each half enough to shape it a bit. Then I set each piece on its own parchment paper (heavily dusted with flour) and sprayed cooking oil over the loaves before covering with plastic wrap. After turning the oven to 475 F, I set the timer for 45 minutes.

I use a stone on the next to the top rack and have a metal baking pan on the lowest rack. After bringing a cup of water to a boil in the microwave I uncovered a loaf, slid it onto and off a peel onto the stone. Quickly pouring the boiling water into the pan I managed to barely scald myself before closing the oven door for 15 minutes. At that time I removed the loaf and paper, turned the loaf around and slid it back onto the stone minus the paper. Another 15 minutes did the job nicely.

Both loaves crackled so loudly as they cooled I could hear them in the next room. DW walked in as I was about to take the second loaf from the oven and commented on how good the room smelled. She stood mesmerized by the hissing and crackling of the second loaf. She's learned not to ask if she can cut a loaf before it cools completely. She can always use the microwave to reheat a slice if she has to have it hot.

We've both learned the flavors develop over the days after the loaf has cooled. While she likes a slice hot with butter melting on it I'm inclined to use slices to hold eggs and bacon, or hamburger and bacon! Or anything and bacon! Or just mayonnaise and fresh cracked black pepper!

Least I forget, the basic recipe.
All the mixing is done by hand, literally.
Poolish:
500 grams of flour
500 grams of water, room tempertaure
1/4 teaspoon of instant yeast

Mix well, cover and leave ferment at 70 to 80 F for 12 hours.

Dough:
all of the poolish
250 grams of water, room temperature
(mix thoroughly)

Add:
500 grams of flour
15 grams of salt

Mix by hand and leave be for 30 minutes. Knead for a few minutes then let rest for 30 minutes before stretching and folding. Repeat stretching and folding every 30 minutes for 90 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap.

Another 12 hour ferment at 70 to 80F. Bread or pizza can be made at this point, or the dough can be refrigerated for up to 3 days before being brought back to room temps and used as needed.

The great thing about this bread is it's manipulablity. By varying any, some, or all of it's 6 ingredients (flour, water, salt, yeast, temperature and time) I can create new breads without straying so far from the basic recipe as to not recognize it.

So far I've varied temperature with good results. I've used kamut flour (as much as 20% of the flour) with great results. I've also tried a whole wheat, an heirloom called "turkey" (I'm not a fan of whole wheat) as part of the poolish and am pleased with the bread.

So pleased have I been with this long ferment method I decided to try teaching the Bulgarian to make ciabatta using it. (The Bulgarian is hopeless at bread making! She's a good cook otherwise. Maybe even a great cook.) Using Peter Reinhart's poolish ciabatta recipe, but cutting the yeast amount to 1/4 a teaspoon and extending the ferments to a total of 24 hours at room temps, I was able to talk the Bulgarian through the recipe to a pair of edible loaves she was quite proud of. (She has since made two more loaves without my advice and has gone on to make a Bulgarian version of Challah, successfully! Twice!)

Good bread is easy. What ruined bread was the idea it could be made quickly, and cheaply. If I, and the Bulgarian, can make great bread, anyone can. Seriously, the Bulgarian is known to be a total disaster at bread building and I'm a freaking village idiot. If we can make good bread, may the gods save anyone who can't!

Beer Bread (simple to make! Eventually.)

(Originally appeared in the ENJ)
“You said you weren’t going to drink beer again.” DW stands with her head cocked to one side, her good eye jumping about as agitation builds.

“I’m not drinking beer.” I grumble. “Beer is disgusting.” I continue to eye the array of bottles on the rack in Gettysburg’s remodeled Giant supermarket where a beer garden replaces the old coffee shop, much to DW’s disgust. She used to enjoy a hot cuppa on our way home from shopping there.

“Then why are you looking at beer?” Her eye is now spastic in its jittering.

“I got a recipe for beer bread.”

She sighs. She used to think I was crazy, as my interests would jump from photography, to fish keeping, to gardening, to leather crafting, to… well, whatever caught my attention. Her eventual acceptance that I am crazy makes life simpler. That I tend to rein in my sudden enthusiasms, I’m only a year and some months from turning 60 (gods, how did that happen?), has also made her life easier as I’ve gotten practical in what I take interest in. Gardening has the potential to feed us, someday. Archery (now that I’ve settled into the type of shooting I enjoy) gets me out from under foot as I go off to watch over the IWLA kids a couple times a month during warm weather. Fermenting sugars into alcohol keeps me out of bars. Bread building fills the house with mouth-watering fragrances and tempts us to eat a food best gifted to others, neither of us needing the weight we tend to put on when I’m caught up in a bread making frenzy. (The current frenzy has run for several months and shows no sign of abating.)

“Beer bread? I hate beer. But go ahead.” Another long sigh. Turns out she hates beer bread made with dark, full flavored stout too. Nor is she wild over the wine bread I made a few days later.

Ever since my decision to sit among the pagans and listen to their philosophies I’ve been finding the universe opening door upon door upon door to lead me ever farther from the beaten path. What I have recently discovered as I step through these doors are rooms I’ve been in before, only now I’m seeing them from a different perspective.

Yes, beer is disgusting. During the ten-year inebriation, I drank a minimum of 3,600 bottles of beer and thought all but maybe a dozen of them disgusting. As I wasn’t chasing their flavor, I didn’t see the people around me who were. Now that I’m looking for shortcuts in bread building, (beer is a great shortcut for adding flavor to bread) I’m finding beer aficionados stepping up with suggestions of what they would like to see in bread I build. (And surprise! I’m not so far off the beaten path. There are more than a few local bread builders ahead of me.)

One home brewer (working at Gateway Liquor store outside of Thurmont), after sampling bread I made using a Polish beer he’d suggested, got so enthused he now wants to make beer for my bread! A customer standing at the counter asked if she could taste the bread. Eyes wide, she allowed the bread had to be on her table next Christmas.

“I don’t suppose you’d be willing to share this recipe would you?”

I happily turned her frown to a delighted smile when I told her I’d found the recipe online and would print out a couple copies for her. (Should she not find time to make the bread herself I’d happily build as much bread as she needs for her seasonal feast. And why not? Her son works in that store, and like everyone else I’ve met there, has begun to suggest other forms/carriers of alcohol I might try in future bread.)

Not long after the Mad One tells me I should consider building bread professionally, Cousin Luke informs me one of his high school friends will be attending our next weekend feasting.

“Jack, he used to have a bakery.”

I find myself sitting with a once-upon-a-time baker as he finishes a plate of Paleo chicken with which the Mad One dazzled us. He uses a chunk of ciabatta I’d built (it’s the Mad One’s bread of choice if I give her a choice) to mop up the sauce. We’ve talked about food and wine, his bakery and why he isn’t baking for a living (no money in it). He mentions working part-time for a bakery/pizzeria in Biglerville. He’s cleaned his plate of sauce, the ciabatta no longer flavored with anything but my effort to give it life.

“What do you think of the bread?”

He studies it briefly. Takes a bite, chews and swallows. “This is good bread. Did you refrigerate the dough?”

I’m impressed. I had retarded the ferment overnight in the fridge.

“How can I improve it?”

The universe opens another door.

The baker, younger than I, clean-cut, soft-spoken, apparently a good Xian (possibly even a Christian, though I’d not go that far on such a short time with him) is about as opposite me as one can get. Yet we share a passion that allows us to consider the other favorably. He’s read most of the bread building books I have and a few I haven’t. He’s worked with master bakers in Phillie, toured the bakeries of Europe and has built a wood-fired oven in his backyard. (He seemed pleased that I recognized the design and took to urging me to bring him dough we can ready for the oven as he seldom has time to build bread these days.)

We got to talking about where I might go with this interest in crafting bread. He suggested I consider a commercial venture. I allowed the idea appeals to me, but I don’t want to make pig food.

“What you call pig food is bread made from mixes and shaped to look like artisan bread. It has additives to give it shelf life. The few bakeries in your area also use mixes, as far as I can tell from the breads I’ve had of them. What you make is NOT pig food. You need to learn the bakers’ percentages and make ten or so loaves at a time so the handling and shaping becomes easy. You have a passion for this. I can teach you the rest.”

“What do I do with ten loaves of bread?”

“What do you do with the two or three loaves you make now?”

“Hmmm… I guess I can find ten people to gift bread to?”

“There you go.” He smiles. “It isn’t the finished bread we’re concerned with. It’s the making, the building, the constantly striving for better bread. Isn’t it?”

Yes. Yes it is. Now, I have to learn to create and keep a sourdough starter.

Adding a bottle of beer is so much easier. Which reminds me! I have three beer doughs ready for the oven and an olive oil bread to start building. And a cake. Honey cake! Gods, the frenzy be upon me!

In Spite of Allergies!

( Originally appeared in the ENJ)

Twenty-eight years ago, it entered my head that I should sober up and get on with living. The hangovers had stretched from a few hours into days and what was left of my mind stubbornly refused to let me suicide by any means quicker than drinking myself to death. With a sigh of resignation, I looked about for something to live for. Having spent the past twelve years as a drunk, I hadn’t much recent experience outside of that scene so I considered the time before alcohol. The twelve years of schooling offered little beyond frustration and anger so I jumped beyond them to my preschool years. What in those dim memories could be conjured to inspire a new run at life?

The fragrance of Mom’s homemade bread filled my head. My mouth watered. I knew I had a starting point. Not a reason to live, but a goal to focus on while I rebuilt a life mostly wasted at that time. I would attempt to recreate the white bread Mom had enchanted a five year old with. (Years later I would realize the god Yeast, has long influenced my life. First, as a major facilitator of bread, then the creator of alcohol, and back to bread again.)

I had a mission. Decades later, I have not built Mom’s bread. It eventually penetrated my addled pate, via a dozen bread books covering all aspects of bread from grain fields to glazes, that a couple of things were no longer available to me. Whatever flour Mom had used, the wheat for it is no longer grown. The milk certainly isn’t the same. (Cream graced the upper portion of the bottles she poured the sweet liquid from, nothing like the thin, chalky joke called “whole milk” today.) Perhaps even the yeast strains had been tweaked. And the butter I use was, in her kitchen, some brand of long forgotten margarine.

Disasters (in my eyes) followed me from bread book to bread book. I finally gave up on Mom’s bread and turned to artisan breads at librarian Sue’s suggestion. Which was a leap of frustration more than of faith. Most people who attempt bread building can make an acceptable white bread. Though many home bakers I’ve talked to pale at the thought of working with wet, gooey dough that can take days to build and often flops at the moment before entering an oven. Sue, being on a bread-building path herself, took to sharing her efforts and inspired me to reconsider just what I wanted from bread.

For ten years, I played with recipes, getting close to something I actually liked, though each loaf was found lacking in one quality or another. Then in October of this year, everything came together. Breads began to turn out close to perfection. Especially breads I don’t like, but others find delightful. It seemed I could do nothing wrong even when I screwed up a recipe or tweaked it by switching flours, mixed building methods because of scheduling, or (even more likely to end badly) adjusted ingredient amounts and time tables to get what I wanted when I wanted it! I had reached a wall and passed through it, or over it.

The Mad One has been my harshest, most earnest critic. No other individual has sampled more of the breads I’ve built, nor urged me onward, nor chastised me more often. The last breads I presented to her eager, but skeptical eyes, were at once tore into chunks to be devoured alone, dipped in some sauce, swiped through a gravy, eaten with cheese, savored with sips of wine.

Staring at me over a handful of bread, she allowed, “This is real bread. All the breads you have brought me these last weeks have been real bread. Now you have to decide. Are you going to continue playing or are you going to get serious and take the next step?”

I stare back at her. The next step is commercial of course. I considered the breads good enough, but wondered if it was ego or fact. Fact, according to the Mad One.

“Stop experimenting and focus on several breads, each for a different purpose. Perfect them so you can make them with little effort. You’ve made some good cake, add another desert or two and you have the basis of a business. Emmitsburg is the wrong town for such a business though. You will have to move. Sophia would be a good place to open a bakery. My sister says the bread there is horrible now. The old ways of doing things are being lost to the European Union.”

I don’t see myself in Bulgaria, but I never saw artisan breads on the horizon, or the Mad One either. Nor did I see a developing wheat allergy that leaves me groggy, sinuses clogged, eyes burning and cramps in the intestines after only a few mouthfuls of bread.

I’ve new goals I struggle toward. Making an income from bread is not one of them. (I’ve stood on a farm and watched tons of commercial artisan breads be unwrapped, ground and fed to pigs and cows. Why would I put my heart and energy into making pig food?) No, I’ll work at perfecting the recipes I’ve gotten good at and gift them to people I know will appreciate them.

I would like to try building breads in a kitchen with commercial equipment someday, before the allergy gets so bad I have to remove myself from a floury environment. (Perhaps I’ll even offer them at some future bake sale.) Gods, I hope the Mad One understands. I’ve seen her challenge dragons and the dragons back down! Maybe I can teach her to make bread, if she hangs around another twenty-eight years?

There is a goal worth working toward. I now have flour from Europe to use in the recipes the Mad One and I favor most. She tells me she has no talent for bread building, just a passion for eating it. That’s all I started with, a passion so great I set aside much else I could have more profitably pursued. She wants me to teach her so she can teach her mom, who (of course) makes the best breads in the Mad One’s life. But not like the ones I build.

Sadly, the Mad One’s mom will not always be there to build such memorable breads. The Mad One, stubborn as she can be, will learn the recipes and techniques from me so she can go home and learn more from her mother. Knowing I’ve passed something valuable on to someone else seems the best way for me to proceed. Perhaps someone not on the Mad One’s horizon will learn bread building from her.

Focaccia, maybe.

It's been awhile since I've posted here. (Been doing the Facebook crap because that's where I thought I needed to be. How wrong can one get?) I need to focus on what's important to me and FB is mostly distraction, and egos almost as bad as my own. So it's back to the blog and BREAD!

This attempt at bread building is out of Peter Reinhart's "The Bread Baker's Apprentice". I've been building poolish versions of Ciabatta for the Mad Bulgarian who is usually furious with me for deviating from the leanest of recipes! Focaccia, made with a poolish, allows me to add whatever I like, even to the point of turning the bread into a pizza! I'm also leaving small amounts of poolish in the bowl as I begin each bread. I rebuild the poolish from the leavings, not that I'm worried about the cost of yeast, I'm trying to establish the habit of baking from restarted poolish so I can invest in a packet of French bread starter yeast and bacteria. THAT stuff is expensive so starting a new bread from the leavings of past starters makes sense, provided I get into the habit of baking often enough to justify buying the first packet of starter.

So Focaccia. (I weigh the flour and spoon or cup measure most everything else.)
Poolish:
11.25 ounces of all-purpose flour
1.5 cups of room temp water
1/4 teaspoon of instant yeast

I mix them with a dough whip, though a large spoon would serve. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and leave to ferment at room temps for about 3 hours. Then chill overnight, or up to 3 days before using. Before using set out to warm for about an hour.

Focaccia dough:
all the poolish
2 teaspoons of salt
2 teaspoons of instant yeast
6 tablespoons of olive oil
2 cups of water (room temp)
I use a mixer, beating everything together, then letting it rest 30 minutes before mixing at medium speed for 7 minutes. The dough should pull free from the sides of the mixer, but be attached to the bottom of the bowl. Add a bit of flour if it seems too much like a batter. Heavily flour a counter top and scrape the dough onto it.

Dust the dough with flour and pat into a rectangle. Let it rest 5 minutes then pull one side out and fold over the top. Stretch the opposite side out and fold over the first. Spray with cooking oil, dust with flour and cover loosely with plastic wrap. let be for 30 minutes then repeat the stretching and folding. Spray with oil and dust again. Recover for 30 minutes then repeat once more. Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit a 17' x 12' pan. Coat with olive oil and gently spread the dough on the paper. This is what you end up with:

While the dough was resting I added onion, garlic, black pepper and oregano to some olive oil and heated it for 30 seconds in the microwave. As the dough relaxed I poured the herbs and oil all over the dough as I spread it out to fill the pan. A final sprinkle of shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, sea salt and some cracked pepper and into the 500F oven it went. The heat was turned back to 450F. 10 minutes then I rotated the pan 180 degrees for another 5 minutes.

And here it is after 15 minutes in a 450F oven, on the middle rack.

Look at the big holes. They should be all through it, but I'm please with this first attempt.

If the bread has a fair flavor I'm likely to add pizza sauce the next try. ;-)

Well, hell (nearly a year later)

Being the addict that I am, I occasionally succumb to wheat bread lust and drop a couple slices of store bought white bread in the toaster in the delusional hope they will make the outsides of a bacon cheese burger worth the clogged head and the following near coma that wheat bread is for me. Delusional is the keyword.

During the warm seasons I can avoid wheat, mostly. But once the air becomes chill the urge to play with flour, heat the house by way of the oven and fill our lives with the fragrance of bread overwhelms me. Even our son, who suffers the wheat allergy more so than I, has asked when I will bake bread again. He doesn't eat my bread, though his wife snatches loaves and sneaks off to their apartment to nibble at them like some hording hamster. He just wants to inhale their fragrance as it reminds him of how things were in his early childhood when mom and dad had life under control and he was mostly safe and free to do as he pleased.

So between the urge to bake and a son's request followed by his wife's need to nibble, how can I not break out the bread books and start building?


This bread was a "white" bread recipe I added yogurt to in place of milk. It also has a large egg yolk and a 1/4 cup of European style butter in it. I didn't care for the result, though my FIL says it's the best bread I've ever brought him. DIL seized the half loaf I had left on the cutting board and ran off muttering "Precious. My precious." Women are so strange.

A second bread recipe was made with yogurt added to give it a less sweet taste. It was such a flop I didn't bother to take pictures of it. Our three dogs all but inhaled that bread. Which reminds me of something a friend once told me. "You're breads are delicious. You're too picky about them. Just enjoy each for what it is."

But I can't. To accompany my wheat addiction is a streak of perfectionism. In damned near every other aspect of my life I settle of mediocrity. But bread? I'm my son's father and I too recall those childhood days of bread in the oven, steaming on a cooling rack, sliced hot so butter melted as it was spread and all the world was safe and mine.

Well, hell

I knew it was coming! And it finally did. My wheat allergy got bad enough to set me on a wheat free course!

The second week of the new year found our household going down with clogged heads, phlegmy coughs, sore throats, chills and fevers. As the nasty stuff settled into my chest I began to notice that every time I ate noodles, or bread, my head clogged up and I felt much worse overall. Feeling miserable enough, I decided I was done with wheat! At least eating it. I still need to make noodles and bread for those who can eat the toxin without obvious distress.

Fortunately, my friend in Texas convinced me to begin making sausage at home. I complain constantly that the stuff I buy from the local stores is either tasteless or inconsistent in flavor. The sausages above are from a "breakfast" recipe she sent me. Delicious sausage! As I'm not one for faux breads made with anything but wheat, I decided cabbage leaves would serve as wrappers. I like cabbage so that works out quite well for me. I'm going to try collards and chard come warm weather. I'd like to grow as much of what I eat as I can.

I also play around with Asian rice noodles and bean threads so using the Asian rice noodle in place of traditional pasta wasn't a big step for me. (The rice/corn pasta that is supposed to be a substitute for wheat pasta is simply disgusting to me. I find there is no substitute for wheat!) I've been able to enjoy my tomato sauces over Asian rice noodles though as well as using the noodles in nontraditional lasagna, which I've found to be superior to traditional anyhow! (I use Alfredo sauces, and cheddar and Provolone cheeses, as well as whatever sausage recipe I'm playing with.)

Stepping away from the standards and exploring the available foods I'm finding or making has been a gift from the gods! Using a little psychology (very little, I haven't much of a mind to work with) I've managed to convince myself that wheat products are poisons that I find disgusting and deadly! I walk through the pasta, baking and bread aisles of the supermarket making the sign of the Cross and muttering "By the power of Christ I command you! Stay back!" Poor DW hisses at me to stop it, but it works. The smell of store bread sickens me and their pasta long ago stopped appealing to me.

DW thinks I've lost my mind. She might well be right. I have fresh egg/wheat noodles hanging in the kitchen. The fragrance is causing me to drool, but I have no desire to even taste them. My sinuses began to clog as I rolled the dough and I itch now that they are cut and hanging. But half of the noodles'll come off the rods and go into bags to be taken to the friend who gave me the eggs from her "run of the property" birds. The other half go to Florida, to a Net friend who loves them more than I ever did and I used to think fresh egg noodles walked on water!